News Hints & Tips
If you know of a service our members would like to know about please let us know
and we will add them to this list of members recommendations.
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Priory
Vehicle Engineers Classic Car Restoration and Vehicle Repairs - American
Specialist
This company has been our little secret for a year or so now and feel it only
fair fellow oldwheelers should know of it's existance.
It is rare one finds a company that lives and breathes old cars and loves them
too. All work carried out has been been first class
and very reasonably priced.
Engine and gearbox rebuild, urgent body repairs, suspension overhaul and
modifications are among the most recent work carried out by Dan. They specialise
in older vehicles and American cars. The paint jobs are stunning !!!
Customers seem to come from all over the UK, which imho is a good sign.
For further details please contact Susan or Andrew Naylor at the usual emails.
Priory
Business Park, Fitzwilliam, nr Wakefield West Yorkshire WF9 5BZ
Tel : 01977
618411 Email angela789atuku.co.uk ("at" is "@" in email
address, it's all to stop robot email harvesters and spamming.)
Walker
Engineering-General Precision Engineering & Welding.
An engineering company who cater for all types of welding
(including aluminium) as
well as those awkward jobs that no one seems to do any more. They have just made us a
mounting bracket for our
Sunbeam Alpine dynamo which is probably superior to the one which
was fitted when the car was new, and mended my screen mounts
on the BMW Motorcycle.
Contact John Walker, 12 Brown Lane West, Leeds LS12 6BH
Telephone 0113 244 4193
Fax 0113 243 9738
Website: http://www.walker-engineering.co.uk
Onward
Refinishing Services Ltd.
All kinds of bodywork undertaken. Underbody protection specialists, (Waxoil or
Dynatrol), on almost any vehicle.
Fine grit blasting from small parts to whole chassis.
Specialist paint finishes, like "Epoxy Coatings" and "Cold
Galvanising" for long term protection of non decorative parts.
Contact: Neil Storey, Onward Business Park, Ackworth,
Pontefract. WF7 7BE
Tel: 01977 614007
Email: neilks@globalnet.co.uk
JDO Instrument Engineers.
Classic car instruments repaired.
Speedometers, Rev Counters Time Clocks etc. Free advice on re-calibration problems, change
of polarity on time clocks/rev counters.
Contact John D Ostick. 34 Spring Avenue, Keighley, West
Yorkshire, BD21 4UG
Tel: 01535 662701
Mobile:07831 886545
Email: johnostick@hotmail.com
Website: http://www.jdo1.com
PTS Plumbing.
1 lb sticks of body solder £2.00
Rhthell Court Billington Road Burnley.
Contact: Mel Tel: 1282 830310
Airedale
Autoparts.
Automotive component distributors based in Cross Hills.
Suppliers of motor spares at very reasonable prices
Contact: Allan Clough, Unit 3 Midland Mills trading
Estate, Station Road, Keighley, West Yorkshire, BD20 7D1
Tel: 00535 631122 Mob: 07850 632211 Fax: 01535 631122
Auto Electrician.
Mobile. Vast Experience, classic car friendly.
All elccrtical jobs and batteries supplied.
Contact: Paul Brown, 27 Pakington Street, (off Manchester Road), Bradford BD5 7LD
Tel: 07836 582478
Airedale
Auto Parts.
For a range of spares for modern classics.
Located on Midland Mills Trading Estate, Crosshills, nr Keighley, West Yorkshire
Ron Appleyard - Artist.
Originals & prints in fine pencil drawing of your pride and joy! There is also a large
selection of pencil drawn classics card mounted, ready to frame. Tel: 01482 507693
J. & E. Engineering Services.
All types of machinery work undertaken.
Engine, gearbox and axle rebuilds. Unleaded conversions and modifications a
speciality.
Unit 32, Britannia Mill, Stoneholme Road,
Crawshawbooth, Rossendale, Lancashire BB4 8AX.
Tel. 01706 222662.
S E S - Stainless Exhaust Systems
Quality 304 grade stainless steel exhaust systems and manifolds. Handmade or individually
designed for most makes of vehicle. Tube manipulation, also water pipes. Vehicle life
guarantee.
Tel 01623 552262
Email: sales@stainless-exhaust.com
Website: http://www.stainless-exhaust.com
Fuel Tanks Restored.
Northern Radiators
as well as re coring and or repairing your radiator have got the UK franchise to a
unique method of restoring your leaking / rusting fuel tank. For more information
email: info@radiatorsonline.co.uk
Website: http://www.radiatorsonline.co.uk
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Hints & Tips
Peg it!
I find that a most useful additional tool is a domestic clothes peg of the spring
variety. A plastic one is no use but
a wooden one has the right degree of grip and friction. Ideally there should be two
cut outs, one of large diameter
and a narrow slot. The large one can be used to hold out the choke to stop it sliding
in when the engine is cold.
The smaller one is used when the round nut holding the sparking plug lead to the plug
has gone astray.
This trusty tool will get you home........ Alan McCormick
Secret Switch:
If you need a small job to do during the last remaining dark and cold winters
night, you could do a lot worse than fitting
an isolator switch to your ignition system. When switched into circuit it will
isolate your ignition system. Anyone wishing to start
the engine will have to first turn it on. When you leave your classic parked up, you
simply switch on the hidden switch to
disable the ignition system. To start up and drive just switch that switch
again. Of course this device wont stop your vehicle
from being towed or trailered away, however it's another cheap, and easy to fit
device that may help. It does help to
remember which way is on.... I have spent a few happy moments willing ours to start
before the battery went flat... then it
dawned on me!!!...Switch it on. So if you see me crawling under the car, you never
know I may be looking for an oil leak,
.................. or could I just be turning on the ignition?
Clean & Clear Windscreen:
During the winter driving months, windscreens take a lot of stick.
Assuming you clean your rubbers regularly (see tip below), if the blades squeak and
chatter across the screen you may
benefit from giving your windscreen a good old fashioned scrub! There are plenty of
quality glass polish's around which
contain very fine grit, with no silicone or wax to form a film of it's own. It may
take a bit of elbow grease and take a few
applications until all the dirt is shifted and the glass feels consistently smooth
after being rubbed with a polishing cloth,
however I can vouch for the hard work required to put in. What's more I won't be
using the "Wax" facility at the garage
pressure wash in future, it took me three goes to shift the last lot!
Wiper Blades
Last a lot longer and work better if they are kept clean, always clean the rubber
at the same time as cleaning the windscreen.
Electrical
Many ‘battery’ problems are caused by poor or broken connections. Keep them clean using proprietary battery
terminal grease or good old fashioned petroleum jelly.
Engine Cutting out
Our Talbot recently began stopping for no apparent reason. After starting up and
running for about ten miles it would start
to misfire and shortly afterwards stop altogether. I checked the points were not
closed or burnt, then battery terminals and
plug leads and coil connections.
It then started and ran ok for about another four miles then stopped again. I gave up at
this point and phoned for the
fourth emergency service as I had reached the end of my quick remedies and it was
getting dark. The A.A. gent was very
helpful and duly checked most most of the things I had done. He then decided it must
be the coil that was faulty and
changed this after I told him it seemed hot to the touch when it stopped at first,
although it had cooled down by the
time he had arrived an hour later.
The car started immediately and ran on tickover and on test for about half an hour with no
further problems.
(thank goodness that the AA still carry a small range of spares for older cars). We
decided it must be a faulty coil.
I was not convinced, however until the nice AA man pointed out a small hole in
the coils cover. I had to agree with him.
It looks as though the oil (this keeps the coil cool) had dripped out over a period of
time. There was still some oil left inside,
however obviously not enough to provide adequate cooling.
The AA gent also told me he had come across similar problems with coils on some 1960s
sportscars that had coils mounted
on the engine blocks or cylinder head. While the oil was still in the coil, it was
still getting too hot and stopping it working.
The cure for these models was to mount the coil on a bulkhead to stop it conducting
heat from the engine.
I would have thought that the car makers would have known that and not mounted it on the
engine in the first place.
I have not relocated my ignition coil though as "Josephine" our little
Talbot, has only got 10hp, has a well ventilated engine
bay and does not get that hot in comparison to newer 60s cars.
Up to press I have had no more problems with the engine stopping so it must have been the
coil.
p.s. I now carry a spare coil (purchased new from Lucas) as well as a spare set of
points, condenser, distributor cap and fan belt - just in case!
Locks
Oiling locks may save you getting a snapped key in the imminent cold weather. Spray
some light lubricant into the locks
and don’t forget the locking petrol cap if you have one!
Antifreeze
Not changed it for a few years? Always top up with water?
Why not backflush the cooling system and refill with some new Antifreeze?
Headlights
Not as bright as you remember? Check both dip and main beams. (also stop & tail
lights).
Better still ask Santa for some Halogens.
Spring clean:
Have a clear out of your garage this winter and advertise those spare parts for the
car you no longer have or need.
Hub Caps
The inside of nicely polished chrome rusts just as well as the outside so why not
remove the hub caps and paint the inside
with a proprietary paint or rust inhibitor to slow the formation of rust down. With
the hub caps removed, I used this
opportunity to check the tightness of the wheelnuts and check over the tyres for any
wear / damage.
to
add tip or recommendation.
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